BIKERS TRAVELOGUES

 By Faiyaz:

I am back with loads of pics and hell loads of stories this time.

25 days of fun & pleasure enhanced by natural beauty of Ladakh terrain. Every time we do it, we cant stop our selfs from drulling at the wonders we come across. Explored: Zanskar Valley, Nubra Valley, Kashmir, Punjab, Spiti Valley, Kullu Valley etc etc…

I would be showing off some really kool pictures in upcoming days on this amazing ride. First let me introduce every member of Adrenaline Riders who participated in this ride.

1. Anshuman & wife Anu
From: London, UK
Ride on: Royal Enfield Machismo 350

2. David Salguero
From: USA
Ride on: Honda Karizma 227 

3. Vikash Kumar
From: Coimbatore, India
Ride on: Honda Unicorn 150 

4: Vikas Chaunkar
From: Delhi, India
Ride on: Royal Enfield 500 ES 

5. Madhav Rastogi
From: East Delhi, India
Ride on: Bajaj Avenger 180 

6. Shalvin Koshy
From: East Delhi, India
Ride on: Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi 

7. Faiyaz Sultan
From: Noida, India
Ride on: Bajaj Pulsar 180 Classic 

• 8 Riders, distance covered over 3500 kilometers
• No. of days – 26
• Explored Ladakh, Zanskar, Nubra
• Best day of the ride: Leh – PangongTso Lake
• Worst day of the ride: Amritsar to Delhi

By – Faiyaz Sultan

What happens if you are on a short tour of 25 days and you end up having food poison in the middle of it?

First let me explain you all as what AMS & Dehydration.

Acute Mountain Sickness or Mountain sickness is an illness that ranges from a mild headache and weariness to a life-threatening build-up of fluid in the lungs or brain at high altitudes.

Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is common for all those who travel to Ladakh as its higher altitude is ideal for AMS. A more serious form of mountain sickness is high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). But not many could end up in that form as it is usually due to heavy lose of oxygen from the blood either cycling or mountain climbing could cause it. This illness occurs when fluid builds up within the lungs, a condition that can make breathing extremely difficult. Usually, this happens after the second night spent at a high altitude, but it can happen earlier or later. HAPE often comes on quickly. If left untreated, it can progress to respiratory collapse and ultimately to death. HAPE is the number one cause of death from mountain sickness.

Dehydration is a condition that occurs when the loss of body fluids, mostly water, exceeds the amount that is taken in. With dehydration, more water is moving out of our body than the amount of water we take in through drinking. We lose water every day in the form of water vapor in the breath we exhale and as water in our sweat, urine, and stool. Along with the water, small amounts of salts are also lost, but when on long tours you must keep drinking any form of fluids as regularly as possible. When we lose too much water, our bodies may become out of balance or dehydrated. Severe dehydration can lead to death.

When a rider goes through dehydration he is prone to acute mountain sickness and guess what? I suffered all of them at the same time.

It all started off on Day 3 of the Ladakh tour when I, Shalvin, Croc stoped at a Dhaba for a hot cup of tea. Shalvin & Croc had normal tea but stupid me, I tried lemon and mint mix tea. How crappy does it sound? Well not that bad as it tastes I would say, since the Dhaba guys did not have the normal tea they suggested either Lemon tea or Mint tea but I asked for a mix between both. One sip and I knew that I cannot have the entire glass of it but it was really cold out there around 3 degrees and I had to have something hot. I had the whole glass of this mixed flavor and really did not enjoy it. After we finished it, we headed up to Manali and it was late night. The ride was not the issue but just 15 mins down the road and i felt like puking out everything. But I did not, reached Manali and got into a hotel. Once in, I was too tiered and really wanted to crash into bed but the damn tea made me go crazy, I puked all night and next day morning it was to my horror that I felt strange pain in my abdominal area. I thought it was normal pain and ignored it, my poor stomach was indicating to the trouble I was about to go through. Mid noon and we reached RohtangLa Pass, by the time we reached I had sickening feeling inside and I was about blast out but then hold myself and controlled it. By the time we reached Koksar, it was sun down time and I had to relieve myself. Stopped at Koksar and ran inside the police check post, lucky me I found my good old friend Neeraj posted there. I finally relieved myself and got out with a grin on my face; this was the first time that I had to go through such an experience and what timing it had. I do have loads of junk food but never did I have food poison. It’s advisable for anyone to check with doctor but I didn’t. We were running out of time and we had to reach Keylong by night. Spending two days in Keylong with the same problem but I did have loads of water.

Day 6, we left Keylong and my stomach ache had just worsened during the course of time. Medication I had would have no effect. We reached Sarchu and by that time I was out cold. David who was suffering from similar problems was admitted in the Medical facility of Indian Army, I just came out of the facility and I dropped dead on the desert. My body would not take it any more and thanks to Anshuman who helped me get back to the facility and next thing I know, I woke up next to David after few hours of sleep.

The entire group was surrounding us and waited for our recovery, I was in no condition to continue nor was David. We rested at Sarchu and the night passed like a lightning. Next morning I still felt the pain, the army doctor advised me to take as much liquid as I can as I was suffering from Dehydration which also resulted in AMS. Little did the doctor know that I was actually suffering from food poison not AMS. I had no symptoms of AMS but did have problems.

Day 7, we left Sarchu and I was determined to reach Leh by noon. David also wanted to be hold on with me and we both decided to leave the rest and move on to Leh. All sceneries, beautiful landscape & amazing sky but no time for a single photo shot from my side. I was eager to reach Leh and so we did by 4pm. 3 more days of even more suffering and I ended up at a hospital in Leh, my pain was unbearable and doctor immediately reorganized the problem and advised for few days of rest with proper medication.

The most beautiful part of the journey was all missed out by me due to one glass of tea. Some times you learn a lesson from such incidences, no matter how prepared you are or how many times you have been there. You would still have a twist in the story and this time it was this problem that gave me one more memorable experience out of the blue.

!! June 01, 2008: Ron Mathewson’s Birthday!!!

On the morning of June 01, 2008, I went to Harley Eastside, Bellevue to pick up Suzie Q. Ambarish take care of the paper work with Alex Astern.
Alex handed over Suzie Q to me. Since I had last ridden with her, Suzie Q had NOT been rented out. I was in touch with Ron on fone. He and Jenn were in Seattle taking delivery of their bikes, sorry Harleys, from Eagle Riders at Seattle.
Around 1100 Ronn and Jenn rolled down to 226th Street, PL NE. I was ready with by camera as the 2 Harley Beasts of Fortune roared alongside making a deafening noise in the neighbor hood as never before. Here on 226th street, you cant hear a thing except the wind blowing ……

Yes the answer my friend, was blowing in the wind, the answer was blowing in the Wind….

RON AND JENN WERE FINALLY HERE..

We the Chitnis family and Mathewsons exchanged pleasantries.  She presented me with a New York Yankee Tee.
Ron immediately wore the tee and that fitted him very well. A few quick pics and we were

Ambarish the Route plan on a Map to Ron. Redmond>Duval>Manroe>Stevens Pass>Leavenworth., some 120 odd miles.
I made an observation to Medini “Jenn is so beautiful….”
Ron smirked and looked the other way. I said “Hey hey Ron, Man you look good too!”

Exactly at 11:00 hrs, we roared off, 3 Harley Monsters.
I was leading, Jenn center and Ron sweeping. The roads were nice and clear, the weather was holding out, but a bit chilly.
Off Monroe, Ron took the lead, Jenn center and me sweeping. Ron stopped the bikes at a Gas Station for a butt break.

The twisties started and Ron started ripping his Monster 1400 cc bike. He was taking the bends in style at high speeds. He is a Honda CBR man. Surprisngly, Jenn also started to rip and take the turns at high speeds, keeping up with Ron. I kept Suzie Q to my riding limits.

As we gained altitude at the Stevens Pass rapidly, the weather started to deterirate. It started to freeze and later fog reduced visibility to around 5 car lengths, some places even less.

The traffic from the opposite side was heavy, as tourists returning home from Leavenworth. Our side traffic was thin. It started to get colder the fog got thicker.
And then, the most unexpected happened. …suffice to say we got away with Nil losses, plenty of Profits, thanks to experiencetial learning from this incident.

I remembered Dr Arn Gupta’s Golden Words……

“Riding on unfamiliar roads on unfamiliar bikes…is asking for serious trouble..”
Dr Arnob Gupta, MDS
Bun Burner, Saddle Sore Rider
Iron Butt Assoc of USA

I will leave out the details for the time being. Jenn’s hands and fingers had started to freeze, no circulation no feel. We pulled over at a curb at the apex of Stevens
Pass. Her hands were white and yellowed. Took some 30 minutes for her to get fit again.

I relaxed Jenn. “Look Jenn, this is NOT going to happen again…so Ride as if you stole the bike…!! She smiled.

This time, Jenn lead the wolf pack, me center Ron sweeping. We had 30 miles to go.
Jen was riding at high speeds…I had a tough time keeping behind her …Ron had slowed down to a leisurely speed enjoying the breath taking views of the Stevens pass.

Once we started to ascend the weather cleared up beautifully. We arrived at Leavenworth.

I found a nice German restaurant for lunch. Ron ordered German home made beers all round, as legally permitted by Law

We were famished.

I ordered a nice big dish of Sausages and Greens.
To my horror, Ron said “Jenn we have home made Indian food waiting for us at the Chitnis’ residence, so lets not stuff up..” He ordered just one small sandwich, ripped it to half and that is ALL they ate! She did not protest one bit….and I, a small Desi, was eating like a Big American Harley Man and the Americans (Ron is lean, tall, a 6 footiya) were nibbling at half sandwiches! Complete role reversals!
Lunch eaten, we walked back to our Harleys ..here Jenn just lay down on the foot apth for a quick power nap!

The Ride home was going fine. We stopped for some pics at the beginning of the Stevens Pass.

Once up the Stevens Pass, was cold again. This time Jenn was lead, Ron center and I was sweeping iin a formation that DIN not allow any cars to pass us. And no cars honked or protested coz tis was 3 Harleys leading all the way. No one messes with Harley Riders in America.

Was a cold rainy windy ride. Jenn pulled up at a 100 years old Post Office cum Coffee restaurant. Gratefully, we went inside, warm and nice. The Coffee was great …only Riders know the value of each sip of hot coffee, what it means to be warm. Ron got his for free as I told the counter lady that it was his Birthday.

We headed out to Monroe…here I was in the lead with GPS in pocket with earfones. But the noise of Suzie’s engines drowned the voice of the GPS. I lost my way and we stopped to cross check the GPS. Done with that and Jenns bike would not start!

We decided to park her bike at a Vet hospital, locked and Jenn held my GPS in her hand riding pillion on Ron’s bike. Ron was feeling bad that we were now late to reach home. I assured him that this was an Emergency and the family will understand. ETA home was 20:30 hrs we made it at 23:00 hrs.
Oh sure the Chitnis Mafia was glad to have us all home. Ron enthralled them with the ride story….

I told Jenn and Ron…”Look a nice ride to Leavenworth and back makes for a boring trip log…..tis when you have incidents and rains, fog and cold winds, unexpected twists and turns, that makes for a great trip log…..We will remember this ride for a long time to come some years down the line.”

Few days later Ron sent me an email

“Captain -

Thanks for the kind words.

It was a crazy birthday for me. Your calmness made it and adventure. Without you it would have been classified a disaster!!”

GPS Magellan RoadMATE 2000 T

24th May, to June 01 was a long wait. I was constantly in touch with Ron via fone and emails.
After returning Suzie Q to HD, there was a strange void in my life. Was this really happening? Me, the Harley, Ron and Jenn. Or was it just a dream?

I told Ambarish I needed a GPS a week before Suzie Q was hired. He was smart and ordered a reconditioned Magellan Roadmate 2000T, great price of $ 100/- only, with amazing features of a $ 300/- GPS.

It arrived without a power cord via Buy.com. Ambo ordered a new cord. That too arrived in good time.

This GPS was later to be our savior during my ride out with Ron and Jenn.

BRANGELINA

To get a bit more familiar with the GPS I hired a car, an Aveo Chevvy, much the same like on the streets of India, only automatic and plenty of power under the hood.

For want of a better name I called her Brangelina arbitrarily, and christened her near a Church at Duval.

VIRAL AND RAKESH : LOVE JOSHI CONNECTIONS

That very night, Medini and I had a dinner invitation with Love Joshi’s sister, Viral and her husband Rakesh at Bothell, some considerable distance away from Redmond. Was a evening night drive there and the GPS was spot on. Viral and Rakesh were perfect hosts and we chatted the night away, as if we knew each other for long. Hey Love, thanks for the introduction Man.

Next two days, I drove Brangelina around everywhere on the hills and mountain roads, to the Snowqualmie water falls to the Rly Museum for route checks and GPS checks.
Water falls at Snowqualmie

Railway Museum, Snoqualmie

I had a wild idea of taking my grand daughter Anika with me. But Ambarish and Archana would not allow me to do that, coz Anika is just 11 months old and they don’t trust me to take care of Anika, though I was reasonably confident of handling the baby and the bath tub…what ever that means…

Ambarish talked to Ron a day before they arrived at Seattle. It was decided that we should ride some 140 miles from Redmond to a nice German town Leavenworth through the awesome Stevens Pass. I drove Brangelina for a route check….all ok.

I was ready for Ron and Jenn.

Finally, finally June 1, 2008 dawned, one of the most exciting day of my life….

Suzie Q welcomes Ron and Jennifer Mathewson at 226th Street, Redmond Ridge, our residence.

Ron n Jenn Roll in

Acclimatization

The major cause of altitude illnesses is riding too high too fast. Human body is not use to decreasing oxygen areas and its basically an adaptation process for the body to get the best results. It increases your respiration capability to get more oxygen.

For more detailed information please see this [Study of AMS]